This is an end grain cutting board where the various species of wood are cut and arranged to produce a 3D effect. When I originally saw this board I knew I wanted to make a version of it. ( for when ever you use a damp cloth to clean your board).This is a one of a kind board! You will receive the actual board shown in the photos. The reason for that was that I wanted to make sure to have extra in case something happens, and while cross cutting those block I had one that got damaged and I was really happy to have spares.įor the glue up I used Titebond 3 because it's food safe and also because it's water proof. If you watch the video, You might notice that mine are longer. The block for the 2 black keys needs to be about 2 feet long and the one for the 3 black keys needs to be 18" long. In order to compensate the 2 Maple strips between the 3 walnut keys needs to be 7/16" instead of 5/8". I had set mine at 5/8 for both blocks and I ended up with the lines not aligning properly on the F# to Bb block (or the wider block). Now for the walnut keys, the sharp and flat keys are 9/16 thick and the Maple in between them will be different between the block.
You will also need a 4 strip block, at 14" long. For the white keys you will need to make a 3 strip block around 18" in lenght, this will take care of the snipes from the planner, and blade kerf for every cut. The white keys are 7/8" wide and the Walnut strip between them are 1/16" thick.
Just this step will ensure that the alignment between the blocs is flowing properly. The wood needed for this build is 1" thick Maple for the white keys, 1" thick Walnut for the black keys and the dividers between the white keys, and 1" thick Cherry for the other side of the board.īeing an end grain cutting board this requires you to preset all your cutting tools to perfect 90 degrees.
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